The idea of a legendary surfer reflecting on their journey from being a “kook” (a term used in surfing for someone inexperienced or clumsy) to becoming a seasoned surfer—and then back to being a “kook”—offers a profound insight into the relationship between passion, humility, and aging. It resonates with anyone who has pursued a skill, fallen in love with it, and ultimately accepted the passage of time, realizing that the journey matters more than the labels attached along the way.
Surfing, like many other passions, is a lifelong endeavor. It’s about more than just mastering the waves; it’s about the connection to the ocean, the freedom of riding a wave, and the sense of community and belonging. Even the most celebrated surfers, those who have reached the heights of the sport and earned legendary status, experience phases where they may not feel like the experts they once were. The waves, the body, and time itself are constantly shifting forces. To admit to feeling like a kook again, even after years of skill and success, is a powerful act of humility that says so much about the nature of the sport.
For beginners, being a kook is simply part of the process. Every surfer starts there, awkwardly paddling, missing waves, and wiping out. But persistence and passion can transform that awkwardness into grace. And yet, the ocean remains a humbling place. No matter how experienced you are, there will always be days when the waves get the best of you. Some of the greatest surfers, despite their fame, continue to see themselves as students of the sport, still learning, still evolving. The term “kook” takes on a deeper meaning in this context. It’s not a label of shame, but rather a reminder of the humility that surfing teaches.
The idea that even a legendary surfer can identify with being a kook as they age might come as a relief for many who fear losing their prowess or identity in a sport they love. It suggests that it’s okay to not be perfect, to lose some of the sharpness that once defined your skills, and to embrace surfing with the same enthusiasm and joy, even if you don’t have the same ability as before. What matters most is that you remain a surfer at heart.
This sentiment highlights something essential about passion: it’s not about being the best or maintaining the highest level of skill forever. It’s about the connection you have to the activity itself. As long as you keep paddling out and riding waves, you’re still part of the tribe, regardless of whether you’re a kook or a pro. This approach to surfing speaks to a deeper life philosophy—one of acceptance, persistence, and finding peace in the rhythm of life.
In the end, becoming a kook again as you age doesn’t diminish your status as a surfer. If anything, it reinforces the importance of staying connected to the ocean and the sport you love. As long as you never become a non-surfer, you’re still part of the surfing world, sharing in its joys, its challenges, and its lessons. The journey is what defines you, not the labels.